What is the best brand of flatwound bass strings you have used?
I use D'Adderio strings on everything - but I seldom use flat-wounds for bass, even on my fretless instruments. I use round-wounds or half-rounds on everything. I hate the sound of flats.
"The best" is totally subjective. You might like some other brand for some other reason - the way they 'feel' - maybe a little brighter or less bright - it all depends on your set-up, your amp - the particular bass - everything.
i have a warwick rock bass which is fretless and i changed the strings on it a while ago and its not relli been the same they seem more tight they are flatwound as well it came with black strings on it but i cant find them anywhere..any ideas what would go with this bass to make it sound good again?
There is a rule of thumb that you should never use a round wound string on a fretless bass due the the exposed fretboard and the resulting abrasion that can occur. You should stick to three types of strings:
1. Flatwound: a flat wrap is used to produce a smooth string. The result is that some brilliance is lost producing a deep mellow tone.
2. Black Nylon Tapewound: a teflon or nylon (usually black) coating is applied to reduce finger noise and make strings smoother and easier to play. String brilliance is subdued making an electric bass sound more like an acoustic bass.
3. D'Addario Halfrounds or GHS Brite Flats: a round-wound string is ground to flatten the outside surface. They are more flexible than true flat-wound strings and tend to be brighter and richer
Does anyone know where i can get a stainless steel (no design on it ) bangle, i would like to get a couple of them so nothing terribly expensive. Thanks in Advance
Y! Shopping
Link to search results for stainless steel bangle: http://shopping.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=Ai6No7Z3hWOIr98W8qsgLdgEgFoB;_ylu=X3oDMTBhNjRqazhxBHNlYwNzZWFyY2g-?p=stainless+steel+bangles&did=
Stainless Steel grades are essentially alloys of iron with more than 10.5% chromium. These grades may contain additional elements of nickel, manganese, carbon, nitrogen and silicon. They can further be modified for special purposes by addition of molybdenum, titanium, niobium, silicon, sulphur etc. A wide range of these grades have been developed based on specific requirements. These are classified into following categories based on their micro structure:
Ferritic Stainless Steel Ferritic Stainless Steel grades are non-hardenable plain chromium grades with chromium content varying from 10.5% to 28% and with low carbon content. These are magnetic and exhibit a better resistance to corrosion than martensitic grades. These grades are employed in applications where the desired formability, weldability and corrosion resistance is between those of martensitic and austenitic types. The ferritics can be polished or buffed to achieve high lustre.
Martensitic Stainless Steel Martensitic Stainless Steel grades are plain chromium grades containing 11.5 % to 18% of chromium with relatively high carbon content (0.1% – 1.2%). Initially developed for cutlery, these are well suited for applications requiring high hardness and resistance to abrasion and erosion. These grades are magnetic and display fair cold forming characteristics. Although these can be hardened by air-cooling, oil quenching is sometimes used to assure uniform hardening. These grades can beDuplex Stainless Steel welded but require stress relieving after welding. They exhibit their best corrosion resistance in the hardened condition and perform well in mildly corrosive environments. Martensitic Stainless Steel grades are commonly used for knife blades, turbine blades, surgical instruments, fasteners, shafts, spindles, valves and pins.
Austenitic Stainless Steel Austenitic Stainless Steel grades are characterized by superior corrosion and oxidation resistance, weldability, ductility and toughness compared to ferritic and martensitic Stainless Steel grades for similar levels of chromium.
Austenitic Stainless Steel grades exhibit excellent resistance to atmospheric corrosion. They effectively withstand attack of organic acids (e.g. acetic, lactic, citric etc.), exhibit good resistance to oxidizing acids (e.g. nitric acid) and fair resistance to mineral acids (e.g. sulfuric acid). These grades are well suited for severe forming. Some grades work harden to a high degree while others have been developed to minimize this tendency. Work hardening is advantageous in certain cases where high strength is required. Austenitic Stainless Steel grades are non-magnetic in annealed condition but depending on composition, they may become mildly magnetic when cold worked. These Stainless Steel grades possess good high temperature properties such as creep strength and resistance to oxidation or scaling. They also exhibit excellent low temperature ductility and impact strength. Austenitic Stainless Steel grades can be readily fabricated by bending, drawing, spinning, punching, drilling, machining and welding and can be readily polished to a high finish. These attributes make them very versatile and popular for diverse applications in a variety of industries. There are two broad categories of Austenitic Stainless Steel — chrome-nickel (300 series) and chrome-manganese (200 Series).
Currently, chrome-nickel is the largest produced Stainless Steel category globally. Typical applications for this category include food processing, chemical plants, pharmaceutical equipment, hospitals, textile, architectural, building construction, kitchenware, consumer durables etc.
Chrome-manganese Stainless Steel is the fastest growing of all Stainless Steel categories on account of its high performance to cost ratio. Its applications include kitchenware, cutlery, sinks, automotive trim, architectural, buildings, furniture, buses, trains and ornamental tubes.
Duplex Stainless Steel Duplex Stainless Steel grades contain relatively high chromium (between 18% and 28%) and moderate amounts of nickel (1% to 8%). This combination of ferritic and austenitic structures is called duplex. Many of these grades contain molybdenum (1% to 5%) and nitrogen (0.05% to 0.3%). Some duplex Stainless Steel grades also contain manganese (up to 5%), copper (up to 2%) and tungsten (up to 2%). These grades exhibit high resistance to stress corrosion cracking and chloride ion attack and have higher yield strength than that of austenitic or ferritic steel grades. These properties combined with suitable design lead to material saving. High quality fabrication and welding are possible if the operator is trained well. These grades are used in marine applications, offshore platforms, paper and pulp industry, chemical, petrochemical and desalination plants.
Shanti Foils Private Limited deals in the manufacturing and trading of all types of stainless steel sheets (patta and patti), coils, utensils, kitchenware, cutlery and scrap. For more information and detailed specifications, visit the site: http://www.shantifoils.com/
Tiny Clip I have seen alot of clips showing women crushing tiny men under there feet. At first the image is frightening.?
But then it's kind of sexy because you have a beautiful woman that looks like she wouldn't hurt a fly step on and crush a tiny person. Now How many women out there would crush someone underfoot if it was possible and what type of shoe would you wear to punish them? My favorite shoe on a woman is ballet flats. Would any of you wear ballet flats to crush someone? If someone did you wrong would you think about taking them out under foot. Would it be similar to crushing an insect?
I would wear tall red stillettos and slowly apply more and more pressure until they are screaming for mercy.
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Almost Famous - Tiny Dancer
Tips for Tiny Triathlon Transition Times
What if there was a way to shave seconds, or even minutes, off your race times without doing a thing to your current training regimen? Sounds too good to be true, right? Wrong.
Practicing and mastering transitions is by far the easiest way to shave time off your triathlon races. With how competitive age group racing has become, even a few seconds could be the difference between a medal around your neck, or a sour taste in your mouth. Lets look at five things you can do to speed your way through T1 and T2 and gain time on your competition.
Transition tip #1: Practice!
It does not matter if you know exactly what to do and have ran through it 1,000 times in your head. If you are in the middle of a race with your heart pounding out of your chest, nerves racing, and blood pumping, 95% of the time you will screw up something if you do not practice it.
You need to practice unzipping and pulling off your wetsuit in a fatigued state, taking your bike/run shoes off and on, putting on your helmet and sunglasses, getting on and off your bike safely and quickly, etc. Even simple motor tasks become difficult when you are under pressure. Developing muscle memory through practice will make it second nature for you to perform these tasks in any situation, even under extreme stress.
Transition tip #2: Lube up
If you are wearing a wetsuit in your race, which you should be, it is very important to be able to take it off quickly in transition. If you struggle to get the thing off, it will negate any advantage you gained in the swim by wearing it.
Put some Body Glide or baby oil around your calves/ankles as well as your wrists/forearms. This will help the wetsuit slide off your body without you having to struggle. Don’t be the person wiggling and thrashing around on the ground after they fell over trying to get their feet out of the wetsuit. Along with lube, a proper fitting wetsuit is also important.
Transition tip #3: Place equipment properly
If you are one of those people that bring a king size beach towel and have all your stuff strewn all over, just stop it. You only need something about the size of a small workout towel for your gear. Having everything compact and close together will eliminate wasted time searching and moving around to get things. Your fellow racers will thank you too.
Your towel should be organized like this from top to bottom:
-Running shoes with socks (optional) on top of your shoes. Not wearing socks will save a few seconds, but don’t do it unless you have been trained without socks without any problems. If you wear a hat during the run, place it on top of your shoes so it’s the first thing you put on. If you wear a nutrition belt you can put that on top of your shoes also. Just make sure the straps are wide open so all you have to do is grab, wrap, and snap. Some people put their race belt on under their wetsuit so they don’t ever have to mess with it.
-Cycling shoes (if you don’t strap them to your bike) with your helmet resting on top with straps pulled out and fully extended.
-Sunglasses and race belt should go inside your helmet in a position that makes them easy to put on without fumbling around.
Some people put their helmet on top of their bike. This works well, until the person next to you bumps the bike rack or your bike and your helmet falls off and rolls away from your transition area.
Transition tip #4: Clip your cycling shoes into your bike before the race
Disclaimer: This is the tip that requires the most practice to truly master. Please do not attempt unless you are confident in your athletic ability and bike handling skills.
The technique of having your bike shoes already clipped in before the race will save time by allowing you to just put your helmet on, grab your bike, and go. You will run out of transition barefoot, mount your bike, and pedal with your feet on top of your shoes. Once you get moving on a flat stretch of ground, well clear of the mount line, you can bend down and strap each foot in. Make sure there are no riders around you and you are not on an uphill or steep downhill section. If you have to ride a while before you find a good flat stretch of ground, no problem. You’re still gaining ground on people trying to put their shoes on in transition and run with their clunky cleats.
To keep your shoes from dragging on the ground, put a thin rubber band through the loop on the heel of one shoe and hook it to your quick release lever on the rear wheel. This will keep your shoes in a fixed position until you start pedaling and the rubber band snaps.
Transition tip #5: Don’t sit. Stand or kneel.
The goal in transition is to save time; there is no place for sitting in a race. Sometimes standing can also be difficult when you’re tired and/or dizzy after the swim. When you dip your head down to put your shoes on and pick up any other gear you need, a massive head rush may ensue and you could end up taking an unintended nap for a bit.
An alternative method is to get down on one knee like you are proposing to the bike rack, place your first shoe on the front foot, then switch and do the same to the other side. You will need to put another towel in front of your transition area to keep your knees from getting scraped up.
Hopefully these several tips will help you save some time in transition and give you a small edge. If you’ve ever tried to run someone in your age group down at the finish, but can’t quite bridge the gap, a few seconds saved in transition could have made the difference. These are not the only time saving strategies out there. Feel free to be creative and experiment in training to find what works for you. Happy training and racing!
About the Author
Jarrett Pflieger is a USA Triathlon Level 1 certified coach and facility director of Triathica, a triathlon training center in Orange County, CA. For more tips and triathlon training advice, please visit www.triathica.com/offers/newsletter_offer_001.html. If you are looking for a training plan or coaching, check out Triathica's website at www.triathica.com.
